I have been interested in permaculture for many years, so creating this natural nitrogen-additive, soil improvement program that reduces erosion, soil drying and weeds while retaining moisture is just so exciting to me. It is also very low input and very high output at the same time. The areas of the main hybridizing garden where I have been doing this for the last few years have gone from orange/peach sand and clay blend with minimal topsoil to rich, heavy brown to black soil with lots of earthworms.
The roots and main vining stems of the clover are still in place, so they will continue to produce nitrogen as the leaves regrow. I also have produced a large amount of mulch for free that is nutritious to the daylilies. This ground-cover/mulch combination is great for me because it continues to generate mulch but even when it isn't cut for long periods of time, daylilies grow well in it as the clover does not out-compete the daylilies while the added nitrogen of the clover seems to in turn help the daylilies to grow profusely.
I still have to weed, but mainly for larger weeds and trees, like maple, poplar or poke, but not for the hundreds of annual and small weeds I used to deal with in that garden. It is important to understand that a garden is not a natural thing. All gardens require some maintenance. It is my experience that there really is no such thing as a weed-free garden. It is all in how you manage weeds, especially removing large and difficult-to-remove weeds in a timely fashion. No garden of any form can go without ever being weeded, because transitional weeds and trees will begin to grow and return your "garden" to pristine "unkempt-disturbed-field" environment, which will eventually lead back to forest.
What I find important about the clover is that when it has made a full ground cover in a particular area, it suppresses the germination of many seeds and drastically reduces the number of species, but it takes time to get the clover to this point. You have to allow it to grow and encourage it to cover areas that are bare. Uncovered soil is an invitation to weed seed germination. Clover makes thick mats of runners, leaf stems, bloom stems, blooms and leaves. In turn it shades the ground well and much germination is suppressed. That then creates conditions where you are not continuously battling weed seedlings, though you will have to weed some and preferably in a timely fashion, if at all possible.
The cut clover leaves and flowers, and leaf and flower stems, will now brown and die becoming a dry mulch. The worms will gradually pull the dried, decaying leaves and stems into the soil to release their nutrients. The clover also gradually regrows and fills back in, so you get the benefit of multiple cuttings through the year, though it should not be cut as often as lawn grass. I am finding about once every two to four weeks is probably enough and will still provide ample mulch to completely cover the soil surface, even in the areas where the clover hasn't fully established yet. As well, where there are mature seed heads in the cut matter, there is a good chance of spreading the clover seeds into bare areas, further helping to make a complete covering for the garden soil.