Monday, July 12, 2021

Summer/Fall 2021 Hybridizing Garden Clearance Sale

 Summer/Fall 2021 

Hybridizing Garden Clearance Sale


It's That Time Again...


Most years I have a sale in the late summer and early fall to distribute hybridizing plants that I am retiring from breeding rotation. It is that time again, and this year, I am distributing over 60 cultivars from many different hybridizing programs. Most of these are exceptional plants that have been excellent breeders in my program. The only listing of these is at my Sun Dragon Daylilies Facebook page. Here is the link to the album where the pictures, details and pricing is found. For questions, please email me at sundragondaylilies@gmail.com

Facebook 2021 Summer/Fall sale album

Here are the details of the sale...

Each cultivar is in low number. This is a hybridizing garden clearance and these are not regular stock items. Each division will be a double fan or better, depending on what is available.

First come, first served.

$50.00 minimum order before shipping cost.

These daylily plants are reserved upon receipt of payment. Payment is by Paypal only.

These plants will ship in late summer to early fall of 2021. Northern growers will receive plants in the early part of the season (to accommodate the approach of winter) while southern gardens will receive their plants toward the end of the shipping period (to accommodate the heat and avoid crown rot).

Shipping is by USPS Flat Rate Priority Mail only.

Shipping rates:
1-5 division @ $18.00
6 - 10 divisions @ $25.00
11 - 15 divisions @ $43.00
16 - 20 divisions @ $50.00

To enquire about the availability of any cultivar(s), please email me at sundragondaylilies@gmail.com

I only issue invoices through my email account listed above. I keep all of my daylily sales filed in one place so everything is organized and in one place, and nothing gets forgotten or misplaced. You are welcome to message me through Facebook, but for orders and invoices, I will simply ask you to email me, so it is easier to just email me to begin with. The email link on my SunDragon Daylilies Facebook page is also this same email address. I can answer questions through Facebook, but I do not check Facebook as often or as regularly as I do my email.

Shipping will start in August and run through October or November, depending on the weather and my ability to dig on any given week. I probably can’t guarantee you a specific shipping date, but I can try, and will do my best to get them to you.

Kentucky residents must plan to add 6 percent sales tax to their order total.

Saturday, June 26, 2021

Thrips Notes

Some Notes on My Selection Methods

Thrips and Other Spring Problems


I wanted to discuss my process of selection for thrips resistance a bit in this post. In a recent private message someone asked me, “If you’ve done all this rouging for thrip problems, why are you still having trouble with them?” I’m not sure what spirit this was asked in, but I took it as a legitimate and interesting question, and one I was happy to answer. It was also thought-provoking for me, and gave me a chance to explain my process. I am not naming the correspondent in this post, because I am not here to call anyone out, and I honestly appreciate the question. Here is my reply.


“Thanks for this interesting question. It is true that I have been selecting for thrips resistance, along with resistance to drought and late freezes in my early program for several years now. There are multiple reasons that I still see thrips in a bad year.


"The first and most important is that I don’t spray my gardens for them. I do spray the plants I send out to people, and I clean them meticulously to ensure that I don’t inadvertently spread thrips (though they are already endemic to most of the US), but in my own growing setup I don’t spray at all so that I can have the full assault of thrips in the early season when there are stressors like drought and late freezes. Thrips in my region are most intense during April and May, and sometimes into June, though in consistently wet conditions, they cause far less damage and are less active. Very dry conditions is their favorite time to swarm out of the ground and feed, it seems. I purposely don’t spray to keep selection pressure high. It has been my experience through years of observation that most daylilies have poor thrips resistance. This is most obvious in darker anthocyanic colors such as red or burgundy, but none of the colors are immune, and some non-anthocyanic colors are just as susceptible as any red or purple. It is also my experience that very few daylilies show high thrip resistance. People tell me that most of their daylilies are fairly resistant to thrips, aphids and other damaging insects, but I suspect they have never seen what these pests can do in the right setting. My conditions are a dry hillside with little topsoil, and even though there is a lot of clay, it still dries out quickly, being mixed with sand. When there is considerable rainfall, my soil holds water well, but due to the sand it dries out quickly, and once dry, stays that way until heavily saturated again. This gives me a special situation where I can make breeding advancements in resistance to these and similar difficult situations and pests, as for several decades I have noted some daylilies that do great when the majority are hit with the right conditions to produce heavy stress in the plants and a heavy thrips infestation.


A daylily flower showing spotting and deformity. Such problems do not have only one cause, and while thrips can cause such unsightly problems, so can other insects, such as aphids. Further, thrips alone may not be able to cause these issues (or at least not to this extent). I note the worst problems for deformed and spotted flowers occur to the early/early and early flowering types, and the issues are worst in years when there is a confluence of multiple stressors while the scapes are forming - i.e, in my gardens, a year combining multiple severe late spring freezes, some level of drought as the scapes are emerging, and the inevitable thrips explosion that coincides with dry conditions in my spring garden.


"Next, because few daylilies show high resistance to thrips and other conditions such as drought and late freezes, and especially so amongst early-early and early types that happen to be forming their scapes earlier than later flowering types, selecting proper breeding materials has been like finding a needle in a haystack. I spent several years just making crosses of those few I could find and observing how the inheritance turned out in order to formulate a plan of action. I don’t yet have a “thrips resistance program”. What I have are a handful of individual plants that have been recurrently resistant to the stressors of early spring in my area, and which, for whatever reason, are not as effected by thrips as others, as well as their most resistant offspring through the first and second generations. That is not a line. That is raw materials. What I have shown to my own satisfaction is that thrips resistance is heritable and replicable within a breeding program. 


"However, another factor to consider is that I have not just been breeding for these traits, and have been selecting for other esoteric traits such as rust resistance and a plethora of plant and obvious, exoteric flower traits. Because so few daylilies show the extreme late freeze/drought/thrips/aphids resistance that I desire, there are other important (to me) traits that might be lost if I solely used those with the above listed observed resistance. This then requires compromise, and especially among the plants that went through multiple years of rust resistance selection. To ensure I had a good number off rust resistant individuals representing multiple different founder plants, I have been slow to cull the best for rust resistance for thrips susceptibility too quickly or feverishly. My process has been slow in this regard as I am loath to cull those that showed rust resistance too precipitously. So, for instance, the first seedlings I made in 2011 and 2012 went through all five years of my rust resistance selection. Now, 9 to 10 years after those were bred, I have gradually culled away almost all the thrips problems from these plants, and am focused on a handful of plants showing moderately high to very high thrips resistance, plus many other good traits. Plants that went through the rust culling of later years, 2013 - 2016 (when the screening period ended) have been given more leeway. Because of that, in good years, when the conditions have not been right to reveal all the shortcomings, I have frequently kept plants that I might then end up culling later. We all do this. It is hard to let go of something you like, for whatever reason (and I am kind of a die-hard, anyhow). That means every time there is a really intense year for conditions to induce heavy thrips activity, a bunch of things get revealed to be inferior in that regard and get eliminated. I don’t get these bad years every year, and there may be two or three (or more) good years between the worst ones.


Me evaluating daylilies in the early season garden. Here, I am inspecting my 2019 introduction 'The Spice Must Flow', which shows excellent resistance to the manifold early season issues I frequently see. Solaris Symmetry, ever reliable in the early season in my garden, foreground, and directly behind Solaris Symmetry is a seedling that is Solaris Symmetry x Implausibility, and is a half-sibling to 'The Spice Must Flow' through Implausibility. It also shows extremely good resistance to the early season issues and has since it first flowered in 2014.

"Another layer is “point of reference” or “point of comparison”. In short, what might look good when there are much worse things around to be culled, may look far worse without those bad things present to be compared too. If a plant's flowers are in the middle of the group when the worst are present, once the worst are gone, that moderate flower may become the worst in the group, and in this way, problem plants are gradually eliminated until the remaining represent perhaps the top ten percent or less of the original population. All programs do this within the parameters for which they are selecting, because you just can’t grow them all, and if you have too much, the truly exceptional can get lost in a sea of data and overload. In 2020 I had a quite good year and everything was fairly beautiful, and while there was a little flash of thrips right at the beginning of the season, they didn’t last long or cause tremendous damage. That year I made my final flower culling on a huge number of seedlings that went through the last four years of my rust resistance selection phase (2013 - 2016), leaving me with about 300 seedlings from those years. This year is giving me the opportunity to observe some of these for the first time in a difficult year, and so I am making further inroads into this group. It is a blessing on many levels. For instance, I have been tepidly beginning to experiment with breeding from some of these for a few years now, but have not made final selections to move anything into my base plant category at the secondary level, so this type of elimination is really important to get any of these into that level (and there will be a few that make that level from those hybridizing years). Because all the seedlings left from 2013 - 2016 had shown significant rust resistance, I have been quite slow and forgiving in terms of culling for certain problems (and more so with the tets than with dip seedlings, as tets show fewer resistant cultivars, and so I have felt a sense of urgency to maintain as many originator lines as possible for this trait). This year though is bad enough that a bunch of these have to go. Last year I eliminated thousands, because I finally had the kind of year, and was in the place where I could, cull all those resistant seedlings down to the most impressive flowers from their respective crosses. This is the kind of year when I can now take that down further by eliminating those that just don’t hold up to early spring stressors. 


"Another hitch is that I ended up with far more early-early and early season plants than I would like. This part of the season has rarely done well in my environment. I have never been a big fan of this part of the season in my garden, but by chance, some of my most important base plants (Ancient Elf, Solaris Symmetry, Implausibility) turned out to be early-early to early flowering in my garden, and because they got used heavily, much of my program skewed that direction. It wasn’t really intentional, but since Solaris Symmetry is one of the most freeze tolerant/drought tolerant/pest tolerant of the early types, and fancy modern types in general, it has turned out that I have been able to make some significant strides in this area - i.e., I have more than enough seedlings with Solaris Symmetry in the ancestry that also show the very high tolerance to these problems to make a real breeding program. It's there, so I might as well exploit it. Another thing I have done is to watch amongst the seedlings of these early-early and early types for later blooming seedlings, as my favorite season is the late and very late, and I am always keen to bring those excellent early genetics into that season. So there are lots of threads in my breeding program, and they are all gradually being woven into what I consider to be the ideal garden daylily with superior plant traits and gorgeous, modern flowers that hold up under adverse conditions on big, bold, fertile, healthy plants. That is a lifetime’s work, though.


My 2021 introduction 'Elizabethan Rainbow Portrait' regularly shows excellent performance in good years and bad and has extremely good breeding ability for passing on that resilience.

"Finally, one other thing to consider is that I don’t automatically compost every cultivar that shows some thrips issues. We have early-flowering cultivars here from a wider range of programs that show mild to heavy thrip susceptibility in a bad year, but that look good enough in a good year and for whatever reasons we continue to grow them in our flower beds. Someday I may only grow my own most resistant selections, but that isn’t something we want to do now. Some of the old cultivars just have sentimental value, after all, and some have one or another very desirable traits while also having some undesirable traits. I don’t tend to write much about the problems of these cultivars, because my point is not to call out other programs, but to simply work toward improvement, if for no other reason than my own driven nature and satisfaction. Each year sees a further refinement of what I am working with, the seedlings I am keeping and the individual plants I am using in hybridizing. Here in my tenth full year of hybridizing, I can say I have the materials to now start my program and build toward the type of daylily cultivars I envision. Here’s to the next decade (because this kind of work is slow by its nature)!"

Monday, May 10, 2021

Getting Clear about Color

Getting Clear about Color


The daylily occurs in a wide array of colors. The potential for combinations and interactions of colors is vast. In addition, in some types, multiple colors can appear in blocked areas like eyes and/or edges that contrast with the main petal body. While the genetics and pigment pathways found in daylilies is much more complicated than what I will be discussing here, I am still able to describe the most basic functions of the main pigments and how they interact, to help the average non-chemist or non-geneticist to begin to grasp what they are experiencing when they see the colors of a daylily flower, and what they might produce from various crosses in their seedling beds. This article is not meant to be a discussion of either the science of the pigments and pigment chain reactions that make daylily colors, nor is it a discussion of the genetics that lie behind the colors of daylily flowers, though both subjects may be touched upon in a cursory manner. 
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A very interesting phenomena is how the visible colors in daylilies are formed by two basic sets of pigments, and while there is a lot more at play, these two basic sets of pigments encompass a great deal, perhaps the majority, of what we see. The carotenoid/lycopene pigments occur in the lower layers of the petals and water soluble anthocyanins occur as a layer in the upper surface of the petals. This combines to make a color visible to our eyes through the blending of the anthocyanin in the upper layer over the carotene or lycopene in the lower levels of the petal. So the carotene or lycopene interacts with the anthocyanic pigment color on the surface to create the apparent tone and shade of color that our eyes perceive. The green in the throats of some daylilies is likely based in chlorophyll.
There are probably several major gene mutations responsible for the variations seen in carotene and lycopene. There are two distinct forms of "yellow" or carotenoid pigment, and either can be lightened or darkened by genes which modify the carotenoid pigment present. When I observe those with carotene, I divide them into 'gold' and 'true yellow'. In private communications with a researcher who has done the laboratory work to find the differences in the carotenoids of various non-anthocyanic flower types, commonly called "yellow", he reports that, "...those without anthocyanins I divide into those with violaxanthin which is "lemon yellow" versus those with zeaxanthin which are ... "yellow orange." His "lemon yellow" is the same was what I have referred to as "true yellow" and his "yellow orange" is what I called "gold" or "golden yellow". Both types can be converted to lycopene, though it is not clear if the same gene effects both forms of carotenoid equally, or if each has its own unique gene causing it to become lycopene. Both types of carotene and lycopene can be very intense and dark (think Mary's Gold or Orange Velvet) or very diluted and light (think So Lovely or Arctic Snow) depending on what modifier genes are found in conjunction with the violaxanthin or zeaxanthin or their lycopene counterparts. There is a huge range of tones in between the darkest and lightest versions of each. It seems to me that both types can be extremely lightened or darkened, depending on how the pigment is modified. There are undoubtedly other pigments at work, such as chalcones and flavonoids. If there are independent major genes for each of these pigments, then there are also likely minor gene/modifier genes and epigenetic effects that modify the expression of those major genes.

Carotene and Lycopene variations

The anthocyanic pigments, found in the upper petal layers, produce colors we perceived as red, orange, pink, lavender, purple, sand and brown tones, and near-black tones. The appearance of these pigments can vary widely as different types of anthocyanins interact, and depending upon which version of carotene or lycopene the anthocyanin is layered over. The potential for visually perceived colors and shades is vast. One marvelous achievement of modern breeders has been to breed and select flowers that have a combination of background color and anthocyanic layer that make for very clear colors to our visual perception. The lightest background combination of lycopene/carotene and a low number of different types of anthocyanins seems to me to make the clearest colors, as we perceive them, with the least amount of interference from tones that will lead toward brownish or grayish coloring effects (triads - three or more colors combined). 

Anthocyanin variations

It is important to understand that the visual effect of daylily flower colors is just as one would expect from the color theory that underlies all art and design. While the genes that produce the pigments that we perceive as colors have nothing to do with the way the colors mix, in the sense of art and design color theory, as the genes only determine the heritability and production of pigments and chemical pathways and reactions, so the colors that we see actually have nothing to do with the genes of the plant, in the sense that no gene produces a "color". What the genes produce are pigments that our eyes perceive as various colors, and when those pigments blend and interact, they create colors that we perceive as blended tones (non-primary colors). The colors are perceptions of our brains and as such are somewhat subjective. 


The perception of color interactions in the daylily flower is our eye relaying information to our brain, and so a color and shade and tone is perceived. Variations in ocular physiology and brain function can create different perceptions between different people. The colors and color interactions being perceived by our eyes is the secondary effect of a pigment layering process that the genus Hemerocallis uses to attract pollinators in their native environments. The colors produced in nature are those most amenable to this process. We have combined mutations and disentangled the pigments that the species use to extract individual colors (specific combinations of pigments) such as bright pink or purple, where in the wild they don't occur in a way that is so 'clear' (single or only a couple of anthocyanin pigments with proper background carotene/lycopene pigment), because they don't have to for their natural purpose. The pigments are creating the effects we perceive, and so to get a specific effect, you will need specific pigments combined in a specific way, but those pigments are not the same as the colors we see, and the genes that produce the pigments are even further removed from what we call "colors". As an example, there seems to be a gene that produces an anthocyanic pigment that we visually perceive as orange, and so orange daylilies such as H. fulva 'Europa' are not exactly just yellow daylilies layered in red pigment. So while the color orange is made by combining red and yellow, in daylilies we get a pigment that is orange as one of the types of anthocyanin. I know this is all terribly semantic and pedantic sounding, but there really are distinct differences in each thing - genes, pigments and colors.

Click image for larger version

Another example is purple. There seems to be a type of anthocyanin that visually appears to be purple. The color purple is made by blending blue and red, but daylilies seem to have a gene or combination of genes that produce visually purple-appearing anthocyanin. So a purple daylily is not just a red daylily with blue blended over it. So in both of the instances I have cited here, those colors are created, in a round-about way, by genes that produce pigments, pre-blended by nature, to appear to our eyes, due to wavelengths of light hitting our eye and being carried into our visual cortex - finally perceived by our brains as a given "color". However, where the colors of daylily flowers do work like color theory is that if you have that purple-appearing pigment layered over a medium to dark yellow, your visual cortex tends to perceive a brownish tone, while if the background color is a pale form of lycopene or carotenoid, a cream to pale yellow, the purple layered over it will appear much more purple, and it seems that the clearer and paler that background color, the clearer the purple anthocyanin appears to our perceptions. 

Phoenician Royalty

Further, if we add two or more types ("colors") of anthocyanic pigments, and depending on what the carotene/lycopene background is, then we see visually blended colors just like we would expect from color theory. Whether that then appears "clear" or "clean" in coloring depends on which colors are combined,  just like in color theory. As an example, when you have purple anthocyanin and orange anthocyanin present in the same flower, you can get rusty-orange to reddish brown colors (though there does seem to be an anthocyanin that makes visual brown on its own). The background of carotene/lycopene will make a difference in the brownish tone of an orange/purple.  An example of this type of effect can be seen in some of the brownish/rusty orange variants of H. fulva. 
The anthocyanic species daylilies all show a visual combination of background and upper layer pigments that result in slightly 'off-tones', which in fact are combinations of two colors that interact in a way that makes an intermediate tone rather than to let the upper tone dominate and appear to be a single color, so for instance, none of the H. fulva 'rosea' are what we might call "clean pink", because they seem to have a fairly dark undertone that has a lot of yellow color in it. This then gives them a slightly peach hint that anyone who is able to perceive a lot of shades of color will pick up on. I always see it, but I still love the 'rosea' types, because they opened the door for so much and because they all tend to be a lovely shade of coral/peach/pink that I find quite nice in and of itself. 

H. fulva var. rosea

To me, a single color is when you have just one primary color. That would be yellow, red or blue. There is no yellow anthocyanin that I know of, but we do have a whole range of yellow shades and tones created by the carotene pigments. Red in its purest expression occurs in petals and eyes and edges of some hybrid cultivars and a few cultivars have a nearly perfect self-red coloring (the cleanest, purest reds seem to be layered over pale creamy lycopene backgrounds). Red in the species is limited to some eyes and then is in tomato to burgundy shades of red. Blue doesn't really exist in daylilies in a stable form as yet, but there are some very bluish expressions of purple and lavender. So from the beginning, we have little true primary coloring in daylilies - yellow from the true yellow carotene and red in anthocyanin. 


The three primary colors

Secondary colors are those made from combining two primary colors, so blue and red make purple, while red and yellow make orange and yellow and blue make green. Those can all be lightened or darkened in tone, but pink does not seem to be just a dilution of red, though you can get light reds and plants that have flowers with both red coloring and pink coloring combined and in various shades. It seems as though the existing anthocyanins are based in orange, red, brown and purple/pink/lavender (which may or may not be separate genes or a continuum of expression of a single major factor which can be modified), and finally, very dark blackish pigment (which may be a combination of several of the other types, intensified). Some of these may not really exist and may just be modifications of one of the other anthocyanic pigments. In practice though, they do exist visually in the hybrid daylilies and the majority of the colors we see in daylilies are secondary colors. That is the colorists perspective. In daylilies though, all the basic anthocyanins are considered pure tones by some. To me they aren't but that is being nit-picky. I will occasionally see people discuss 'primary colors' in daylilies, but upon further questioning they are actually referring to primary and secondary colors. "Jewel tone" colors often seems to me to mean the same. What I think that means in practice is one or two anthocyanins which blend properly (not becoming brownish) combined over a base of some tone of carotene/lycopene that does not interfere or interact negatively.


The combination of three colors is called a tertiary color, because the mixing of three colors (a triad) is one way to get tones that are no longer really any of those colors but fall into intermediate colors, often in the range of cream, tan, sand tones to brown and gray tones in our human visual perception. While there appears to be an anthocyanin making visually brown pigment that derives from certain fulva species, brownish effects can also be achieved through combining the secondary colored anthocyanins (i.e., orange and purple), or by combining purple anthocyanin over a dark yellow or golden yellow carotene. On some yellows, purple may only make a subdued purple that isn't bright but is still recognizably purple, while in other instances the visual effect is more brown. The presence of visual anthocyanins in general seems to be dominant to the absence of visual anthocyanin (i.e., yellow/melon types). I don't know if they are all alleles of one locus or independent genes.  

Tertiary colors are derived from blending the three primaries or by blending a primary with a secondary color.

Pink and/or lavender anthocyanin over yellow or gold carotene can create shades of peach to orange visually. Lycopene without anthocyanin though also seems to be able to make a range of peach tones, so this color family can be created in two entirely different ways, it seems. When the under-layer is a darker lycopene and the anthocyanin over-layer is pink or lavender, the outcome can be fairly peach to orange, as well. Orange anthocyanin is complimentary over yellows and gold, but they can also occur on the lycopene base and can occur on the very diluted near white bases. Red anthocyanin can work on yellow carotene or lycopene bases. The carotene/lycopene base plays a part in the particular 'tone' of red you see. On a yellow background, there is a tendency toward a more orange tone to the red, though this can vary and some red daylilies might have both red and orange anthocyanins interacting to make them more orange-red or China red. Red on a lycopene base can be rather coral when that base is intense and the clearest reds appear to be on the lightest lycopene base.  All the anthocyanic colors appear to express, with the least interference by a third color, on the palest lycopene "near-white" to "cream" bases.

A good example of pink anthocyanin over a yellow carotenoid base creating a visually peach tone.

I see expressions in cultivars and in the seedling bed that indicate to me that there can be more than one type of anthocyanin present at once. I do not know if this is from two different alleles at the same loci being present, heterozygous and perhaps showing co-dominance and partial penetrance of both types, or if this means that each of the anthocyanins actually represent a different segment of DNA, being their own individual genes. If the later is the case, there might be the possibility of having more than two types of anthocyanin present at once (could this be what "black" is?), and if these mutations are each at separate alleles, whether on the same chromosome or not, there is the possibility of having each gene either heterozygous or homozygous in any combination of all those separate genes producing a particular anthocyanin. Think about what that means for color. The anthocyanic colors seem to be orange, red, purple, brown, and pink/lavender. I honestly don't know if purple is the same gene as lavender/pink or if lavender is the same gene as pink only modified differently, or if pink and lavender are separate genes. All of the anthocyanic colors seem to be able to be lightened or darkened, and I would suggest this is due to factors that control the level of pigment deposited in the tissue of the tepal and perhaps the distribution of pigment in the tissue (or both).  I doubt that these are the same genes that create dilution or intensification effects in the carotene/lycopene, because you can have darkly intensified anthocyanin on a very pale carotene/lycopene base, and conversely, a darkly intensified carotene/lycopene base with lightened anthocyanin over it.

The Spice Must Flow, with a red-orange and a purple parent, combines both colors in the flower and is difficult to photograph, as it tends to flatten out into brownish tones, when in person it is much more vibrant and shows both orange and purple tones to the eye.

So if we have orange and purple anthocyanin showing up in the same flower, regardless of the shade, this will tend to produce a brownish effect, in some shade, perhaps leaning more to orange or more to purple, but noticeably not fully either one (a tertiary tone), though in rare cases both colors can be noticeable to the eye. In those instances, these combinations can produce layered effects where both the orange and purple are visually present and the flowers look vibrant in person, but can be very difficult to photograph. A homozygote for both orange and purple would be able to provide all its seedlings with a heterozygous dose of both orange and purple, and those heterozygotes would be visually in the range of the homozygote parent, but could produce both orange and purple individuals when mated to either color. The result of the visual coloring, tone, would depend on what background carotenes or lycopenes are present and what shade (diluted or intensified) it is occurring in. If you know the color wheel, you will be able to deduce what the combination of the various possibilities might make. If you get too many anthocyanic colors combined, then all roads lead to brownish colors and if the brown anthocyanin itself is also present, then the tones are dulled leading to earth tones regardless to the other colors that might be present.

But are the brownish tones something "bad"? Clearly nature doesn't think so, as the pigments found in fulva, made by the anthocyanin layered over the carotenoid layer, tends toward orange, brownish-orange, brownish-red and peach-pink to sandy-peach. In domestic hybrid breeding, as the pigments have been pulled apart and layered over cleaner and cleaner backgrounds, I believe we have gained an understanding of what is actually present in the genus and what each of the anthocyanic pigments can look like independently on a very pale lycopene pigment base. The 'brown' color can be diluted or intensified. It can occur with eyes, edges, watermarks and patterns. Some of the effects can be very awesome and create a neat niche of domestic cultivars that have interesting garden uses. While those who can only think about the "clearest colors" may find them painful to look at (and we recognize and honor your pain!), there are a number of daylily people and gardeners alike who appreciate the unique effects that can be achieved with colors other than "jewel tones". The range of cream to sand to brown to black, as well as their grayed versions, are awesome in certain landscape uses. Further, such plants can have a lot of applications in hybridizing, and can even produce very "clear and clean" tones when mated to the proper partners, especially if their earth tones are the result of heterozygous gene action.

Brown Exotica

One of the biggest problems concerning color in the daylily world is that there has been a certain 'looseness' used in the descriptions of color for a great many registered cultivars over the years. The use of the terms 'white' and 'pink' and 'lavender' have often been extended far past the point that I would use them. Because of the focus on getting to the clearest and brightest colors (which is a worthy and noble undertaking!), there has been tremendous peer-pressure in the daylily world to get away from earth-tones or anything species-like. The general public's extreme reaction to fulva 'Europa' as an "exotic invasive" must have also played a part in this process.  However, the brown factors have persisted, and our refusal to acknowledge them as a part of the overall palette is a big part of the problem. Because of the general peer-pressure to only produce "clear colors", a flower that should be called sandy-tan with a brownish-burgundy eye, might get registered as 'near white with a wine-purple eye'... I don't blame the registerer for using more appealing terminology, and I don't blame growers for being dismayed when the flower doesn't match the description (or the introduction photo). What I blame is a mindset where "sandy-tan with a brownish-burgundy eye" isn't perfectly good enough, though I do think hybridizers might have a responsibility to describe colors as accurately as possible, in spite of the general peer-pressure of the group hive-mind. I don't know of any other group of flowering plants where such good pigmentation for brown variations occur, and where the breeders are also so generally ashamed of it. The orchid growers have certainly made good use of the color brown, as have breeders of many iris species. The carnivorous plants often show an array of interesting brown tones. Daylilies could have this exploited much further than it is.


Brown Orchid

Near white with black purple eye and edge above green throat? Not in my garden, but still beautiful.

Now I want to state very clearly for the record that I LOVE the bright, clear tones that have been achieved in the modern hybrid daylily gene pool. 

Jennie Sivyer

Cultivars such as Rosy Complexion (John and Annette Rice) or Hush Little Baby (Sarah Sikes), Blue Dolphin (John and Annette Rice), Violet Blue Note (Robert Selman) or Willow Dean Smith (John and Annette Rice) are true achievements of color breeding. I think that the selection and breeding toward this kind of color clarity is a work of art.

Rosy Complexion

Such brightly colored flowers glow in the landscape, and when combined with bright to light yellow to near white or cream colored cultivars as a background planting, can create a cheery, magical landscape that simply takes you out of the everyday world and into a world of fantasy and sensual pleasure.

Hush Little Baby

But that doesn't mean that the other expressions of color which fall outside that narrow range are by default rendered inferior. They serve other purposes, and the purpose of any garden is as individual as the gardeners who make them.

Forsyth Pale Face

If you can only appreciate the bright jewel-tones and have no room or time for anything else, that is wonderful and I couldn't be happier for you! Nor can I express how special I think that is! But I do think that it is yours, and doesn't have to be mine.

Barbie's Dream Flower

I also like the brown underbelly of nature, and not just the few bright high-points along the way. Shadows make the light seem brighter, and the dull and earthy has a special beauty all its own.


Matthew Martin





Some What Odd


Wabi Sabi

Again, for the record, my favorite colors are jewel-tone pinks (of every shade and tone) and purple to lavenders in the bluest possible tones, along with near-white, rounding out the top three. The next group of favorites, for me, are the brown and gray tones in all shades, followed by bright medium to pale yellow shades and tones. Orange is the next favorite group, with red and golden yellow coming in last. The majority of my program, in terms of my desires in regard to color breeding, is based in breeding the clearest lycopene-based near-white, and then working pink and purple in every shade and tone, as well as the other anthocyanic colors, over that near-white base. That is the ideal in my program for coloring. However, because I have worked with so many different types of plants to bring in superior plant traits such as rust resistance, thrips resistance, vigor, size, tall scapes, branching, superior plant performance traits, etc., I have perforce had to deal with using plants with flowers in colors that I like (there are none of them that I don't like), but that aren't at the top of my list for preference and that are a carotenoid base rather than a pale lycopene base. 

First generation (F1) crosses of Ancient Elf (a medium golden yellow carotene based) x Solaris Symmetry (diluted lycopene base with lavender anthocyanic over-layer). Click image for larger version. Three of the seedlings from this cross are 2021 introductions - Ancient Ent, Origin Of Symmetry and Sun Dragon.

Second generation (first generation backcross BC1) from seedling (Ancient Elf x Solaris Symmetry - now Sun Dragon) x Solaris Symmetry

This has allowed me to see a wide range of interesting heterozygotes, and to learn how to use those intermediate, heterozygous expressions in breeding. In the process, I have come to love grayed-lavenders and lightened brown on lightened lycopene backgrounds more and more each year. I have also learned that there can be tremendous breeding potential in heterozygous plants that don't match the ideal of "jewel tones". Because I like all the possible colors and shades and tones, and I love the species daylilies, keeping and working with plants that have flowers that are not the clearest possible pink or purple or lavender has not caused me any undue stress or suffering. In fact, I have learned from it and gained both important data and useful experience, along with an appreciation of a wider range of phenotypes of flower coloring.

Asterisk







There is a lot to the genetics and pigment chemistry of daylilies that we don't fully understand yet. Much can be deduced from simple observation. The colors, once the genes and pigments have produced them for our eyes to see, blend in the same way that we would describe in color theory, as used in art and design. While many have very narrow ideas about what "should" or "shouldn't" be allowed, acceptable, or permissible in the colors of daylily introductions, the fact is that an entire range of colors exist, including brown and grayish tones. All these colors exist, and so all can be used, cherished, loved or reviled, as one may choose. The important thing though, in my opinion, is to get clear about the nature of the range of colors that exist and to not attack and demean colors we don't "like" or people breeding colors we don't prefer. Useless terms like "muddy" or "jewel tone" are not good descriptors and the many different ways in which each are used shows us that there is no real consensus about what such terms even mean. By understanding what colors are, how they are formed, how our eyes and brain perceive colors and what that means in our daylily flowers, we can get clear about color.